Hair Clay vs Paste vs Pomade vs Wax: Which One Do You Need? (NZ)

Updated November 2026. Prices are our live online prices.

Hair clay, paste, pomade, wax, putty, fibre. Walk into any barber and the shelf looks like the same tub six times over. They aren't the same, though, and the wrong one is why your hair looks great at 8am and flat or greasy by lunch. We cut a lot of short hair at the salon on Helwick Street, and this is how we explain the difference in the chair.

Hair clay vs paste vs pomade vs wax: the quick version

The finish matters more than the hold. Most people who say a product "doesn't work" have bought shine when their cut wants matte, or the other way round.

What is hair clay, and who is it for?

Hair clay is a styling product with clay in the base, usually kaolin or bentonite. The clay soaks up a little oil, so hair looks fuller and drier, like it did on day two. It's the one we use most on textured crops, short back and sides with length on top, and any cut that's meant to look slightly undone.

Sebastian Craft Clay ($43.08) is matte and remouldable, so you can push it back into shape after a helmet or a hat without adding more. It suits normal to thick hair best. On very fine hair, any clay can look chalky if you overdo it. Start with a pea-sized amount and warm it between your palms until it's soft.

What's the difference between hair paste and hair clay?

Paste is softer and creamier. It gives texture with a bit more movement and usually a touch more natural sheen than clay. If clay feels stiff or draggy in your hair, paste is the answer.

Sebastian Matte Putty ($49.24) is a soft-touch paste with a matte finish. It's easier to spread through finer or shorter hair, and it doesn't look as dry as a clay. For a stronger paste at a lower price, Wella EIMI Rugged Texture ($33.00) gives matte definition with strong hold.

Hair wax vs pomade: which one gives shine?

Traditional wax is pliable and leaves a low sheen. Modern fibre waxes stretch when you pull them apart, which is how you get those separated, piecey ends. Sebastian Microweb Fiber ($49.24) is our pick here: elastic, medium hold, and you can redo it with your fingers any time.

Kérastase's take on wax is the Genesis Homme Cire d'Épaisseur Texturisante ($57.12). It's matte with flexible hold and has strengthening actives in it, so it suits men whose hair is getting finer and who want texture without stiffness.

Pomade is the shiny one. If you want a slick back or a sharp side part, you want shine and a comb. We don't carry a classic greasy pomade. For that look we use Sebastian Gel Forte ($43.08), a strong-hold gel with a polished shimmer that brushes out once it's dry. Our hair gel guide covers the rest of the gels.

Two ways to get matte texture: Sebastian or Kérastase

Honestly, both do the same job on a textured crop. Kérastase costs more because of the Genesis strengthening care built into it. If your hair is thick and healthy, Craft Clay is all you need.

Best hair product for men with short hair

• Textured crop or French crop: clay. Craft Clay, worked through dry hair, then pinch the fringe.
• Short back and sides, longer on top: paste or fibre. Matte Putty for a softer look, Microweb for more separation.
• Slick back or side part: gel or pomade, combed through damp hair.
• Curly or wavy short hair: skip the heavy stuff. A cream or light gel on damp hair, scrunched. See our curly hair routine.
• Fine or thinning hair: a light paste plus a texture spray. Heavy wax and clay flatten fine hair. Our fine hair guide has more.

Want a cut that's built for the product you'll actually use? Our men's cuts start with that conversation.

How to use hair clay or paste without it looking greasy

1. Start with dry or almost-dry hair. Clay on wet hair dilutes the hold and dries patchy.
2. Use less than you think. A pea-sized amount for short hair, a little more for thick hair.
3. Rub it between your palms and fingertips until it disappears and your hands look shiny. Cold product goes on in clumps.
4. Work it in from the back to the front, roots first, then shape the ends with your fingertips.
5. Want more grip first? A mist of Sebastian Texture Maker ($49.24) on dry hair before the clay adds body. Our texture spray guide compares the options.

If it still looks greasy, you've either used too much or your hair needs a matte finish rather than a natural one. Switch down a step: wax to paste, or paste to clay.

How do you wash out hair clay and wax?

Most water-based clays and pastes rinse out with one normal shampoo. Heavier waxes and anything oil-based need two washes: the first breaks it down, the second cleans the scalp. If you style every day, use a clarifying wash once a week so product doesn't build up at the roots. Our clarifying shampoo guide covers which one. Men who want one bottle for everything can use SEBMAN Multitasker 3-in-1 ($50.12) for hair, beard and body.

For the full men's routine, including beard care, read our men's hair and beard guide. For every Sebastian styler side by side, see the Sebastian styling guide. You'll find the whole range under pastes and waxes.

Product works best on a cut that suits it. If you're after a men's cut in town, see barber or salon in Wānaka.

Questions we get asked

What is the difference between hair clay and hair paste?

Clay gives a drier, matte finish with firmer hold and makes hair look fuller. Paste is softer and creamier, with a little more movement and a more natural finish. Fine hair usually does better with paste, thicker hair with clay.

Is hair clay or pomade better?

It depends on the look. Clay is for matte, textured, undone styles. Pomade is for shiny, slick, combed styles like a slick back or side part. If you want texture, choose clay. If you want shine and a clean line, choose pomade or a shiny gel.

What is the best hair product for men with short hair?

For most textured short cuts, a matte clay such as Sebastian Craft Clay. For softer texture, a paste like Sebastian Matte Putty. For a slick back, a strong gel such as Sebastian Gel Forte combed through damp hair.

Is hair wax bad for your hair?

No. Wax sits on the outside of the hair and washes off. The problems come from build-up when it isn't washed out properly, so use a clarifying shampoo once a week if you style every day.

Can I use hair clay on wet hair?

You can, but it holds better on dry or nearly dry hair. On wet hair the clay gets diluted and can dry patchy. Towel-dry well or blow-dry first, then apply.

How much hair clay should I use?

About a pea-sized amount for short hair, a little more for thick or longer hair. Warm it between your palms until it looks clear, then work it in from the roots. You can always add more.

Does Kérastase make a hair wax?

Yes. Kérastase Genesis Homme Cire d'Épaisseur Texturisante is a matte, flexible-hold texturising wax for men, with strengthening actives from the Genesis Homme range.

Everything we sell is genuine salon stock, bought direct from the brands' New Zealand distributors and shipped from our salon on Helwick Street in Wānaka. Free NZ shipping over $75.